Polar pint preferred

Draught Guinness was born in 1961, when a tepid 15° was deemed the ideal temperature to enjoy a pint. Now it’s down to a chilly 3°. Rachel Collins clinks glasses with drinkers of the Liberties to find their views on the polar pint

For years, ‘Pint o’ plain’ was the most common cry to be heard in Dublin’s hostelries. Guinness was the man’s drink, not only a thirst quencher but an integral part of the Dublin social life.

But the traditional image of the ‘pint of black’ has changed considerably over the past decade, from the preferred pint for aul’ men to a trendy tipple for the young and fashionable.

So what has caused this metamorphosis of the nation’s favourite pint? All signs point toward the gradual change in temperature that a pint of Guinness is served at. Draught Guinness was born in 1961, and a tepid 15° was deemed the ideal temperature at which to enjoy a pint. Over the past three decades the temperature of a pint of Guinness has dropped a whopping 10° down to a chilly 5° - 6°. This was as a result of advances in the technology involved in the production, storing and serving of Guinness.

But that doesn't take into account the introduction of a new breed of stout called Extra Cold Guinness in 1997. Extra Cold Guinness is served at an arctic 3°. According to Pat Barry, Head of Corporate Affairs with Guinness Ireland Group, Extra Cold was introduced in response to consumer needs. "Extra Cold is doing very well, and sales of Guinness continue to grow since its introduction," he says.

Interestingly, Frank McNally, Food and Drink writer with the Irish Times wrote an article in January claiming that Extra Cold Guinness was a freezing flop with Guinness drinkers of old. The Liberty decided to see what the pint pullers and drinkers of the Liberties think of this new polar pint.

Silken ThomasFirst stop was the Silken Thomas on Francis Street. The Silken Thomas seems to be the oldest surviving pub in Dublin, and some of its regulars are possibly just as old. These men know a pint of Guinness. And they don't mind telling you about it. So when P.J. Thomas, a Guinness drinker for 35 years, says he absolutely loves the new stuff, it’s a little surprising. When he says that Guinness has never tasted so good it’s even more surprising. Assistant manager Robert Kennedy tells me this is not an unusual remark in the pub. He feels that although the Extra Cold is aimed at young lager drinkers, some of the older fellas really like it. "In time I'd say they'll eliminate the older stuff altogether,"he says.

The Liberty Belle - Down the road at The Liberty Belle there are two Guinness taps, both of which serve Draught Guinness at 5°. They don’t serve Extra Cold "because there’s no need for it, there’s no demand," barman John Molloy told the Liberty. Guinness drinker Margaret Fitzpatrick agrees. "I find the new one too cold. The warmer one is a nicer pint by far."

The Green Lizard - Directly opposite the Tivoli Theatre, the Green Lizard pub attracts locals as well as the Tivoli crowd who pop in for one before and after the theatre. Guinness is one of the most popular drinks in the pub, according to barman Martin Dunne. He also sees the competition from lagers as the reason for the drop in the temperature of Guinness. His customers, who are of all ages are only given the Extra Cold if they ask for it. With the Green Lizard selling 10 barrels of the Extra Cold for every one barrel of the normal stuff, it seems that the people of the Liberties are very definitely asking for a colder pint.

The Clock - Brendan Dunne, owner of the Clock on Thomas Street, serves Extra Cold Guinness, but again, customers must ask for it specifically. Obviously not many do, as he reckons the Clock goes through only two kegs of Extra Cold Guinness a week, in comparison to a considerable 40 - 50 kegs of the traditional stout. Guinness drinkers Kevin, Christy and Micheál must be in the minority so, as all three told The Liberty that they prefer Extra Cold, "except for the hangover. It’s a lot worse with the cold stuff," they say, although that might have more to do with the quantity consumed rather than the temperature.

O’Neills - O’ Neills on Thomas Street is a testament to Guinness drinking. On a blustery Tuesday evening, the Liberty found O’ Neill’s to hold 16 customers, young and old, all of whom were drinking Guinness. Barman Steven Whelan has been pulling pints in O’ Neill’s for 13 years and is confident of the tastes of their patrons. "From listening to people, you get to know what they like. Guinness is very popular," he says. Despite its proximity to St. James’ Gate, O’ Neill’s doesn’t seem ready to change with the brewery, and Extra Cold is not served in the hostelry. Stephen sees Extra Cold Guinness as a drink that is more suited to Temple Bar and town.

It seems clear that the people who really matter in this argument are not the breweries or the drink critics, but the drinkers themselves. And in the Liberties, they have given a definite thumbs-up to Extra Cold Guinness. The last word has to go to Steven Whelan of O’ Neill’s. "Once the pint is good that’s what it’s all about."