FLORIDA TO ALASKA ROUND TRIP

FLORIDA TO ALASKA ROUND TRIP

22 DAYS AND 10955 MILES

By Ray Cantrell

Thursday, June 11th. 1999, day 1. Start miles 6870 ending 7582

Left Crestview 5:30 AM Breakfast at Granny’s in Georgiana,AL 7AM talked with Debby waitress there who wanted to see me when I return from my wandering. Talked with trucker and fellow GWRRA member on CB for about 40-50 miles. Bike feels somewhat top heavy as opposed to riding solo without 165 pounds of luggage, tent, sleeping bag and folding camp chair which was a Father’s day in advance gift from my son,daughter in law and only grandchild (Rachel). Also packing along in center trunk an assortment of tools, spare gasoline 2.5 gallons, oil filters, 12 volt compressor, 1 can fix a flat, utility coveralls ( in case I have to lie down in dirt to work on bike) assorted lengths of nylon rope, nylon ties, stainless steel tie wires and about 30 lbs of items that I didn’t use on the entire trip. I did use the spare fuel on 2 occasions which will b mentioned as they occurred- I must admit just knowing I had these backup or worst case scenario items made me more comfortable on the road.

Gassed up after 159.5 miles took4.224 gal, mileage=37.76 I kept a running log of miles and gallons the entire trip. The best mileage was at speeds under 70 sometimes as high as 39.+ at speeds over 80 it dipped down to 32-34 MPG The poorest mileage and the most uncomfortable riding was on I 40 between Amarillo and Memphis where crosswinds gusted up to near 50 MPH and shoved me around like a giant unseen hand every time I moved out from the shelter of a truck into the crosswind- that was 31.33 MPG.

Made it alive through heavy traffic in Smoke City (CB talk for Birmingham) same for Guitar (Nashville) had beanie weenies and crackers lunch at rest stop just before Nashville. Left I 65 for I 24 sweated on roadside for 45 minutes getting thru construction the first of 2 such intervals this day. Made pretty good time. Soon learned to fill up my coffee cup with all ice and a little diet Pepsi at each fuel stop then I could have a drink when I became thirsty or sleepy. Made good progress out of Tenn on I 24 and into Kentucky picked up I 57 and then I 64 near Mt Vernon, Illinois no sooner got on I 64 rain began, rode approx 25 miles and lightning started. Sought shelter under an overpass on I 64 and there I met Mark and Mary Jane, riding 2 up on a beautiful blue Harley . They were returning from a several day ride in the Smoky Mts. We talked and they invited me 2 sleep on their couch that night rather than find a motel- I accepted their gracious offer and was rewarded with supper, a good clean shower even coffee the next morning. Once the lightning display ended we rode state roads near Centralia, Ill for about 50 miles and wound up at their home St Rose Township approx 24 miles from St Louis

End day 1 End miles 7582

Day 2. Start miles 7582 end 8233.7

Left St Rose Twsp, Ill at 7 a.m. after coffee, snapshots, hugs and handshakes with Mark and Mary Jane Observed 3 foxes and several raccoons as road kill on flat state roads B 4 taking I 270 around St Louis thereby (lawyerspeak for obviously) missing construction delays on I 70. Breakfast and fuel approx 100 miles West of ST L. Smelled gas once back on I 70 discovered I had closed compartment with gas cap off- did this twice more before learning to double check gas cap and saddle bags at each fuel stop- kids waved and pointed down somewhere West of St L. Left saddle bag hanging open stopped and secured it- nothing lost. Began checking R and L bag lids in rear view mirrors after each stop.

Traffic extremely heavy and fast around Kansas City got in a little contest The 2 Harley riders getting thru 3 lanes of traffic at 75-80 M P H I chickened out when they split the center line between a load of steel and a U haul at 80+. During the contest I mistakenly took I 35 North instead of I 29 N- took a state road West and only lost 15 – 20 miles/minutes. Today my butt tired after a half day of riding- discovered putting more weight on pegs and gripping tank with knees provided ample relief- later got real thrill riding rain grooved repair sections for 4-6 miles at a time. 2 things I enjoy least were rain grooves and steel grated bridges. Experience told me to loosely grip handlebars and let the bike go its way but I never got comfortable with these conditions- I prefer loose gravel to iron bridges anytime: more about this later.

I became bored riding Interstate and took federal 75 between Council Bluffs and Sioux City, IA/SD/ NEB. Absolutely beautiful, unscarred country- postcard quality views of Missouri River, Indian Reservations, ( Winnebago, Dakota) corn growing straight up off mountainsides where it looked like a goat might fall down and break a leg. Got back on Interstate and took room at Super 8 Elk Point (Single $54.95 one of the most expensive of entire trip) walked to nearby store had beer and pizza for supper.

PLAN 2 RUN STATE ROAD 50 tomorrow and cut across the right angle that I 90 and intersection of I 29 make

Day 3. Elk City – Spearman S.D. Start miles 8233.7 end 8778

Up 6:30 a.m. rode state roads Northwest thru Yankton, Wagner, Platte, and Winner on State 50 then North on Federal 183 to intersect I 90 @ Presho very little traffic most towns very similar: 1 or 2 very large farm equipment dealers Hardware and supply stores , maybe a drive in or small movie, café and not much else. Mountain type highway about 10 miles East and West of the wide Missouri River lots of sweeping curves and changing elevation, The river was a pretty scene appeared at least 1 mile wide. Birds tried to fly in my face all day had to brake for pheasant the size of a chicken, saw several foxes and unidentified furry mostly black with some white road kill ( later learned it was porcupine- a trucker said he hit one and still had quills stuck in the sidewall of tires a thousand miles later).

Started seeing more bikes once on I 90 after Presho. Sporsters passed me at 75MPH+ 2or 3 times just like I was parked. Apparently helmets are optional in S.D. Rode 10 –15miles of grooved highway under construction on I 90 between 75 and 95 mile markers- made my whole day worthwhile. Toured Mt Rushmore, Custer, and Black Hills was somewhat disappointed in Rushmore after riding in line in traffic for the best part of 2 hoursgot in this "free park " only to make choice 1 park nearby and pay $8.00 park fee or park free in remote lot and walk between ¼ to ½ mile away. I chose not to pay took a few pictures and was soon rolling again. The Buffalo/ bison in Custer park were tame and unconcerned with the tourists. Saw lots of bikers in the mountains , snow was still on the ground in some places.

My gas gauge was indicating empty at Rushmore, pulled into general store that had gas pump- price 2.99 per gallon, stopped in a level spot and emptied my reserve 2 ½ gallon from the center trunk and was good for another 100 miles to cheaper fuel. Rode on to Spearfish S.D. sought room best Quote was $83.00 discounted to $73.00 for old folks such as I. Rode 10 miles North on Fed 85 to Belle Fourche got clean room for $30.00. Supper at local café was steak , salad , tea and baked potato more than I could eat $4.85. As I was getting ready to shower I saw an elk/ moose/ something with a huge rack grazing in a field behind the motel.

Day 4. Spearman S.D. – Great Falls Ma. Start miles 8778 end 9337

Subtitles Ray meets deer- Ray meets Gary and Virginia- Ray meets Jason

Up and riding @ 6; 30 a.m. started out with 2 layers of clothing, 1st time I needed my thermals or gloves except to protect the back of my hands from sunburn (by now they are blistered and peeling) Hit my 1^st deer/ elk/ it had a white tail and a wide rump, in a construction area between Gillette and Buffalo. Two of them appeared out of a sunken median , I panic slowed from 65 to approx 40-45 and swerved to right shoulder instinctively : caught the last one in the rump with front wheel, sounded like slapping my hands together. Hindsight now tells me if I had swerved left I could have missed entirely- so much 4 hindsight. I inspected the front end and could find no damage, rode at 20-40-60 fully expecting a telltale vibration or shimmy IT WAS MY LUCKY DAY. The animal never broke stride , he was also lucky. Told my son Mike about it that night with this admonition "Don’t tell Mom I’ll tell when I get back home." Had an egg Mcmuffin and got fuel @Buffalo noticed that at least half of the pickup trucks had a dog riding either in cab or mostly in the bed. Saw a pretty Australian Shepherd brought back sad but fond memories of " Heidi girl" who died on her birth day about 1 year ago from being too aggressive with a UPS delivery truck.( we got her for Mike several years ago,I still get a lump in my throat remembering her)

Back on I 90 rain started and I was forcing myself to ride 70 on a 75 highway. Two bikes appeared in my rear view and passed me like I was stopped- It was Gary and Virginia ( for brevity G&V) riding matching black Valk Interstates @ 80+ I speeded up and found them on CB spoke to G inquired destination ? " Alaska " ‘want some company?’ the beginning of a great friendship. Not until we stopped for food and fuel in Billings did I realize that V was not a man, she rode expertly like a man and only when her helmet was removed did I realize the truth. For those not familiar with Valks they are the high performance version of my Goldwing, they have 6 carburetors different handling features: lower lean angles = take curves faster, engine exposed rather than enclosed = less effect from crosswinds and drafts from meeting and passing trucks and campers. 2 negative factors : 1 they do not have cruise control – only throttle locks = more difficult to maintain constant speed 2; tire mileage at high speeds is very poor, more on this later.

We rode on to Great Falls talking all the way- didn’t realize how much I had missed someone to talk to, not to mention map reading, staying on course and sharing sights and avoiding insensitive drivers( like one towing a pickup at 70 mph with a sometimes slack chain, no tow bar- we took a rest stop rather than pass this pair) I talked to my wife Jackie (J) every night sometimes waking her at 3 or 4 in the A.M. Just reiterated that "absence makes the heart grow fonder" 1 negative about the whole Journey-J was not able to share and enjoy it with me due to a lot of medical problems. Observed prairie dog and other animals not native to FL today. The prairie dog could teach possums, chickens and raccoons a lot about crossing highways 1 actually stopped at the center stripe stood on his rear legs and watched me pass by 3" away at 75 mph

Arrived Great Falls early afternoon found a motel 2^nd class but clean wi a window air cond for $25, G&V also registered but left after finding no air con in their unit. I didn’t blame them as this is like a second honeymoon 2 them, I would have sought other lodging had J been with me. They finally settled in @ Conrad some 50? Miles North of Great Falls. Met Jason ,Harley rider from Saskatoon S.K Can. who was staying in unit next to me, we had steak supper together pigged out for $4.75. Jason had rode in rain for past 2 days and was glad 2 see the sunshine on the way to 2 week vacation and camping in Idaho. I talked 2 everyone @ home and went to sleep without shower or even taking sox or t shirt off.

Day 5. Start miles 9337 End 9945 Great Falls to town in Alberta with miniature oil derricks at city entrance proclaiming " oil capitol of the world"

Some of the towns and routes are not clear for the next 2 days G had made this trip before on a Harley and I followed his lead as to routes- mostly good quality secondary roads Expressways only when absolutely necessary.

Up @ 5 a.m. showered, packed loaded and secured luggage in 20 minutes. I’m getting better every day. All my shaving gear, comb, toothbrush, and personal items are in the left saddlebag where I can get without unpacking or bothering with 2 large Marlboro travel bags (property of my son and his wife- frequent comment "you must smoke a lot of Marlboros") which carry clothing for every temp 20 degrees up. They also serve as my backrest and work just fine, The bike is stock with factory seat and standard pegs. After 3 days I’m comfortable most of the time –50 MPH crosswinds and 1000 mile days excluded. Met G&V at Conrad , saw a lovely view of the falls from the truck bypass to I 15 didn’t stop for pics, sipped morning coffee ( 25 cents @ truckstop) while riding. Crossed border extremely polite border official asked to see picture I D saw my badge, inquired destination, wished me pleasant trip, no problems. One of the Hog riders I met from Texas had to unload everything and remove his seat @ a border crossing.

We ate breakfast @ the border- I usually burned 1 tank of gas before eating but was anxious to try Canadian food that Brian ? Tim ? had described 2-3 weeks earlier. Had something similar to a Southern fried pie or an egg roll stuffed with sausage and a sweet roll that was a meal in itself- I’ll definitely be heavier when I am back home. Am learning to speak and think in clicks ( kilometers 1mile =1.6 roughly) Currency is another language I’m acquiring, basically 1 U S $ = 1.42 + or- C. I converted $ 300 and it lasted 4 days in Canada. On the entire trip I kept my cash and traveler’s checks in 3 separate locations and doled out $100 each day. I spent about $70 each day except for gifts and shipping things home. I was glad for this system when I lost wallet in Fairbanks, AK (more later).

We took route 36 wide, smooth, paved shoulder secondary road with very little construction. I was pleasantly surprised with Canadian drivers both car and truck. They move over "Texas style" half off the road with 2 wheels on the shoulder to let u pass when they see u in the rear view, some drivers will stop or slow to let u enter or turn if u display turn signals. On this entire trip I tried to stay out of truckers way at times slowing or letting them pass to keep from slowing them down- I was rewarded with fascinating CB conversation and concern every time I stopped on roadside ( " you O K on that 2 wheeler?") My favorite trick when passed by a red/blue, whatever truck at 80+ was to key up and say" man them red trucks will really run. Gonna buy me one of them big trucks when I get big, Just set up there and ride and make them big dollars. " Hardly ever failed to provoke conversation. We had lunch @ Hanna (pop under 5000) lady from the weekly newspaper talked wi us and took a pic of us and bikes- sent me a copy of the article and photo. NOTE: I used mostly slide film for the trip it is in process and may take up to 3 weeks I plan to set a web site later and display some of the better (optimistically) shots I will post later.

Somewhere near Hanna we passed a large coal mine which interested this retiree who spent several years down there where it is always dark. We ended the day in the town whose name I cannot recall got a motel there owned by an Indian( native from India) at a rate of $34 C=23.95 US. Parked our rides under the shelter of the 2^nd floor overhang and walked ½ mile to nearby steakhouse. Sumptuous meal Thick steak smothered in onions and mushrooms( G is allergic to mushrooms) Tequila shooter on the rocks- stout drink , with a generous tip by Canadian standards for $20 C=14.08US . Walking back to my room it seemed like every kid and teenager in town was rollerblading @ 10-11 P.M.

Forgot 2 mention Canadian tourist took our pics today had us sign his Email book will send us a print when he gets home.

Some hindsight : I am recreating some info where I took bad or no notes- using motel receipts, postcards sent home, and maps I/we used plus photo notes . I believe the ending town was Drayton ( Drayton Valley on maps) It corresponds with ½ day ride (364 miles) after lunch@ Hanna. I also forgot a side trip that afternoon to Royal Tyrrell Museum in Drumheller, Alberta, Canada- the site of remains of Tyrannosaurus Rex "known for its massive head, powerful jaws and huge teeth Trex was one of the largest meat eating dinosaurs to prowl the earth looking for prey before dying out 65 million years ago" straight off postcard I sent J. The trip was well worth the extra miles 30?50? some locals told us about it at a gas stop. I think we took these highways, #36 to Castor, 12 West to 22 then 22 North to Drayton.

Day 6. Start miles 9945 end 10570 Drayton to Ft Nelson

This is a short day in the journal , we noticed that G&V were having unusual wear on their rear tires- after approx 3000 miles the tires were noticeably worn checked existing rubber on my ride ,then theirs and knew for sure they would have to replace soon. We stopped 2-3 times and finally contacted and arranged to have tires shipped, (airlifted) to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory with a Honda shop( not an accredited Honda bike dealer )to install by Friday noon this was about 1200 miles away. We concentrated most on gas, food, and fluids- the temp was rising between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. I filled my cup with ice when available – I stopped carrying ice in my hitch mounted cooler because it caused crackers, potato chips, and such to loose their crispness, before the journey was ended I had learned to drink my beer hot- English style. Beenie Weenies, potted meat, and vienna sausage with crackers and chips were my midday meal when traveling alone.

Most days I started out with a long sleeve sweatshirt , sweat pants with shorts worn over the sweats so I had a lot of pockets. The design of my bike kept my legs and feet warm and dry regardless of rain or cold within range 40-80 degrees. I never mastered Celsius temp I know that 25 degrees Cel is warm and comfortable.

We followed route 22 and 43 North and NW to Dawson Creek the location of marker 0 of the Alcan took some pics there @ the arch( all tourists do ) spent an hour over lunch trying to wait out a dark cloud hanging over our next stretch of highway. Bought gas and started out the rain caught us in 15 minutes. Made pretty good time in spite of the light rain making everything slippery. My 1^st iron grated bridge on the Alcan was wet from rain and looked a mile long to me. I love concrete bridges. The entire time we rode together V would let me know every time an iron grated bridge was imminent. She hated loose gravel, but rode expertly under all conditions. I never fell on a bridge but did dump the bike once in construction fill. (later) G was an expert rider with lots of experience on Hogs, BMW, and other bikes, he is a certified motorcycle safety instructor and reassured V a lot in rough road conditions. The worst road this day was patches of loose gravel where the road had froze and been repaired- not bad but dusty at times.

We ended the day @ Ft. Nelson riding into the sun @ 10 p.m Got a motel, supper and called J before sacking out with the midnight sun still shining. I called J from an outside pay phone because I refused to pay a room phone charge for a collect call- mosquitoes almost ate me alive, had to cut the call short.

Day 7. Start miles 10 570 end 11,171 Ft NELSON – WHITEHORSE

I became aware of some of the natural beauty and wildlife on the Alcan today – just when I thought it couldn’t get better - seeing bear, caribou, moose, and red tailed hawk at very close range thrilled me. It was good to have riding partners to point out sights I missed, help pass vehicles in blind areas, and point out hazards (horses on roadside- car stopped with dog in middle of road etc.) I really missed all this when we parted. We covered approx 30 miles of less than perfect roads today- crews cleaning up fallen rock, loose gravel, and fresh loose fill approx 6" deep. Visibility was poor at times: we would meet a truck (the Alcan is used by lots of doubles similar to CA Interstates) and could not see due to dust created. The worst was a 6 mile area with deep rub board bumps, normal drill for this = almost stand up on pegs with most of weight and center of gravity on footpegs, loose grip on bars.( except in deep loose fill) Sometimes we could speed up and get on top of the bumps- not possible on that stretch. It was so rough it jarred my coffee cup from its holder and I had to stop and retrieve it. Finally slowed to 15-25 to cover that area.

We used our first tank of gas and stopped @ Toad River for fuel and breakfast. This place had the largest collection of hats (ballcaps) I’ve ever seen-had breakfast there on return trip- didn’t realize it was the same place until I saw the hats. Spoke to some other travelers, heard that Alcan may be closed North of Whitehorse due to forest fire evacuation. Sometime in the afternoon passed we got gas and food- pizza and milk for me (I wanted beer but must make a $5 purchase to get beer) and took pictures @ the" signpost capitol of the world" Watson Lake. 2 blocks more or less of signposts from cities allover the world- saw several from FL,ALA, especially AUBURN( no ROLL TIDE) At this location we covered 223.7 miles between fillups. We arrived in Whitehorse around 9-10 p.m. located the dealer who was to mount G&V’s tires the next day. Of course he was closed and would open 8:30 Friday a.m. G had also made an appointment to have oil, filter and 10000 mile service on my ride. We found a nearby motel but I chose not to stay there – prices somewhat expensive, by Canadian standards, and room was upstairs where I couldn’t plainly see my bike. As I was making a sharp right turn into the street I had to stop for approaching traffic: I put my right foot down then clipped it with the footpeg dumping the bike over on the right crash bar and engine guard. G&V heard the engine race and were there to help me get it up almost before it stopped falling VERY EMBARRASSING.

I literally pitched my tent that night at a nearby campground where I could park next to my site for $12C. Met some interesting people that night including an Australian who was making my same trip on a bicycle. The young lady at campground said if I wanted I could leave the tent set up and decide next day if I wanted to stay another night

Day 8. Start miles 11171 end 11569 Whitehorse to Tok via Haines Junction Burwash landing, and Beaver Creek.

Up very early, almost before most businesses were open, got breakfast at deli in Whitehorse where GWRRA holds its meetings. Ordered 1 egg and cinnamon bun, was served egg, hash browns, toast, and a cinnamon bun the size of a saucer. Arrived at Honda shop where I had service appointment over 1 hour before 8: 30 opening time. Met G and we walked around looking and killing time. G talked to parts man and shop supervisor, discovered they had never installed tires on a Valk before. In fact they were not aware the Valk has no center stand. G contacted the local Yamaha dealer( who had more experience on Valks and decided to let him do the tire work. This meant G and V would spend a 2^nd night in Whitehorse and I would be traveling alone this afternoon.

While my service work was being done, I converted some currency @1 to 1.44 rate and purchased a camera. My cheap camera had been a problem and ruined 2 rolls of film. I spotted a computer shop with internet connections $2 for 30 minutes. I sent myself some e mail of my 1^st week on the road- thru some error it never got to my home. Had an almost tearful goodbye with G and V on the street (G said we’d cross paths again and he was right) around 1 PM. I went by the campground loaded up my gear and was on the road by 2 PM. I chose to stay on the Alcan rather than go thru Dawson City because we had talked to some riders from Fairbanks. They said the construction on the Dawson City route was the roughest and consumed more time than the Haines Junction route. I went over some sites that day where rocks and fill the size of tennis balls had to be negotiated. This same construction was a more serious task on the return trip in the rain.

I had a late afternoon meal at Bear Creek Lodge- the young lady ( a high school junior) who served me told me the mountain range I had been seeing for hours was ST Elias Range. It was snow capped with quite a lot of snow not yet melted. She also told me her Dad was planning to buy a bike and take her touring when she finished school. I wished her luck and reminded her this was the most carefree time of her life.

A forest fire earlier had evacuated Burwash Landing for a distance of approx 15-20 miles Authorities there formed a caravan of 10-12 vehicles with a trooper in front and rear to make sure nobody stopped or looted the deserted areas. I turned my right blinker on – I wanted a picture of the destruction- the trooper blew his horn and shook his head NO. I held the camera up and snapped 2 pics as I rode. @ helicopters were dipping lake water and dumping it on hot spots as we passed thru. Passed Kluane Park and Lake where sheep on the mountainside looked little white dots against the far away mountainsides. In the flat U shaped area around the lake crosswinds were severe. Saw some Floridians in 2 campers at an observation point : we talked and exchanged email addresses . I got gas for the bike and a hot dog for me at Beaver Creek. The place I stopped had interesting stuffed bears, owls, fish and other animals which I photographed. Shortly after entering Alaska I saw a moose then a coyote but no time to get a pic of either.

Got a motel in Tok( rhymes with poke, was called Tokyo but changed to Tok as a result of war with Japan so the story goes) Went to bed 2AM still daylight.

DAY 9. START MILES 11569 END 11771

Up at 9AM, had interesting conversation with Art Reeves . He’s possibly 55, ½ Indian (native American) gave up a Midwestern trucking business and settled in Eagle, AK several years ago. Art is a photographer: said he was going "upriver" would be back sometime in October. We talked about independent living, the need for good neighbors( his nearest one is 35 miles away) and how nice it is to be retired( retarded?) I have his address , he’s gonna check his mail sometime in late October.

I’m cruising at 65 and enjoying the scenery more, Stopped to take pics of Robertson River, the swift water has a wide path in the middle : there remains on either side ice perhaps 12-18 inches thick. While taking pics a green Goldwing halted to see if I had trouble- it was a GWRRA member from Fairbanks headed to the Wing Ding in Missouri. I arrived in Fairbanks, got lunch, and took a room at Super 8 for 2 days($170.00 + things cost more up here)

At the motel I saw 3 or 4 Harleys that I had seen on the road several times during the last few days. One was from Great Falls, the other California, another Indiania, all were here for a Hog convention out at the fairgrounds. They invited me and I accepted their offer. After unloading my gear and carrying it up to my 3^rd floor room, I rode to the fairgrounds : the bike felt light as a feather. I had 2-3 beers and spoke with (took pics of) some of the approx 600 or more Hog fans there. They couldn’t believe the distance I covered in 8 ½ days with only 6 hours in rain. Ate some delicious BBQ and dessert left around 10-10:30. Stopped at Safeway for groceries and did something REAL STUPID. I failed to secure my wallet- possibly lay it on the seat and sat down on it – or just stuffed it halfway in my pocket. Whatever happened I didn’t have it when I got to my motel. Normally it would contain only $70 or less BUT I cashed a Traveller’s check to pay for my room therefore it held( I later learned $180) Don’t despair there will be a happy ending at 3 AM next Tuesday. I called and reported my 3 credit cards lost- spoke to someone at Fairbanks P D (said they’d let me know if wallet or papers were found). Once I got over the initial shock I decided not to let this ruin my whole trip and to enjoy the rest of my journey. So ends day 9.

Day 10. Start miles 11771 end 11802

Got up 10 am did a little shopping picked up film, arranged 3 tours- 2 for today and 1 for Monday morning. At 3 PM touring Eldorado Gold mine just approx 15 miles from Fairbanks, tonight at 9 pm I will take a flight over the pipeline road to the Artic circle and Northwest to the town of Beetles, then back to Fairbanks airport. Left early for goldmine tour got my first closeup look at the Alaska pipeline. NOTE After returning home on 7-2-99 I read a library book" Politics of The Alaska Pipeline" It was interesting to learn of the builder’s early intentions to practically rape the country and its wildlife with the only concern being cost – then read their literature.Working with nature was not a concern until they realized Alaska and the U. S. government wouldn’t allow construction without those safeguards.

The gold mine tour was interesting only because I had mining experience and got a look at roof and rib (walls) conditions and control. The tour seemed more like a staged play than an educational item. It ended with everyone panning for gold with a bag of material provided by the tour operator. The young lady who assisted me was a student at univ of Alaska, she said I had enough gold to mix a "Goldschaleger". Riding back to my motel I ran into heavy thunderstorms- had to stop and put on a facesheild so I could see. Also bought new batteries for my camera, the ones that came with it didn’t last 2 weeks.

The Prudhoe flight though somewhat expensive( $180) was the most interesting and provided more insight and understanding of the geologic evolution of Alaska. The plane was a Beechcraft 1900-twin engine 15 passenger. There were 12 tourists, pilot, co-pilot, and tour guide( Jake) aboard. Jake was from Univ of Wyoming with a doctorate in Political Science, B.S. in Journalism and starting to study law. Every person wore a headset and Jake provided an expert commentary on all the conditions visible from 5000 feet the entire trip. He told us about the history, economic, political and physical settling of Alaska in a most informative manner which reflected his love and concern for the last frontier. Jake’s father was the weather bureau agent on duty at Beetles when the coldest temp ever recorded in North America was recorded- the thermometer froze at –80 degrees. I had a political discussion with Jake and was delighted to find he shared my views on capital punishment ( no person ever executed has ever caused his victims or their loved ones anymore pain).. He had covered the Paul Hill trial only 44 miles from my home in Crestview .

While the plane was refeuling we had a symbolic drink of champagne with one couple celebrating an anniversary.The trip back was quicker, we arrived in daylight around 12:30 AM.

Day 11. Start miles 11802 End 12338

I began the day with the tour on the riverboat "Discovery", a very well guided approx 3 ½ hour paddleboat tour on the Chena River. The tour was well organized and enabled me to acquire a better understanding of many facets of native Alaskan life. It almost seemed a continuation of the previous night’s experience. I took a lot of pics, got some new e mail addresses, and even met some people from my hometown of Birmingham. Saw a fish wheel, a sled dog team( nowadays they have been replaced by the "iron dog" snow machine) learned the importance of paddlewheel boats and bush planes in taming the Alaskan territory: had free coffee and cookies in the process. The tour was well worth the price. $39.95

I began the 360 mile trip to Anchorage around 2 PM, travelling at a leisurely pace with frequent stops for pictures, snacks, conversation and drinks. I stopped once for a jewelry salesman( parked on roadside in old station wagon) selling his wife’s homemade rings and earrings at most reasonable prices- he had a 44 magnum in a holster that hung almost to his knee. His reason for the artillery-grizzly bears frequently crossed highway near his spot and also some crazies had tried to take his money and merchandise on 2 occasions- both unsuccessful. For $ 30 I bought trinkets for my son’s wives, my granddaughter and wife. Around 8 PM I stopped at a center 40-50 miles from Anchorage and restocked on lunch and snack material I saw a young man on an older Goldwing and spoke with him about motel accomodations in town. His advice-there are " tough places" which should be avoided. With that in mind I skipped a half dozen seedy looking combination motel, bar roadside joints. Earlier I planned to continue to Whittier roughly 70 miles South of Anc. and take a boat to Valdez, saving a 304 mile road trip. Stupid Ray misread the map- the only route to Whittier was to transport bike and me by rail to Whittier at a cost of $59 plus boat fare if there was a vacancy on the boat. Rather than spend $118 and possibly lose a day I decided to double back and ride to Valdez. By now the time was 2-3 AM, I called J and she informed me that a lady in Anc had found my wallet with currency intact, credit cards missing, driver license, police badge and ID gone. The wallet apparently fell on the highway and was passed over by many cars- every thing on 1 side was missing and the other side was intact. I rode back to Anc got quotes for $ 99-199 for an overnight room and settled down in a local campground till I could meet Eileen -the lady who found my wallet in Fairbanks.

Day 12. Start miles 12338 end 12918

Got up at 7 AM after only 3 hours sleep, showered and shaved- excited about meeting the one in one thousand totally honest lady who found my wallet. I called and got directions to their home roughly 5 miles away. The lady, Eileen, was from a family of modest means with 5 children(1 year old twins up to about 10-11 year old boys). They saw my wallet on the highway in Fairbanks while attending a soccer game there, got my address and phone from my library card which was still intact, and called my wife on Monday. Eileen said they wanted no reward- she wanted to impress on the kids the value of honesty. Touched by the obvious- this family could have used the $183 far better than I- I told Eileen to take $60 and treat the kids to something special. This would better convince them that it pays to be honest. I took pics of the family, boys on my bike, and assured them of a place to overnight if ever in Florida.

By time I got on the road traffic was heavy – last night when I arrived in the early morning hours the streets were deserted. The highway from Fairbanks yesterday was some of the best Alaska roads I traveled, with the exception of one construction area near Cantwell, where oil was puddled on fresh grade to keep dust down. While mailing post cards at Cantwell yesterday I met an 82 year old former" Harley Davidson" (as he put it) rider. We had an interesting 20 minute conversation about Hogs and Hondas which the postmaster thoroughly enjoyed. When the old gentleman left the postman told me the old man and his wife were topics of town gossip years ago because they took long rides together and were not even married.

I got out of the heavy traffic about ½ way to Palmer where I stopped and had breakfast and fed the bike some petrol. The trip to Glenallen began with traffic backed up and several miles of muddy, slippery construction but the worst was yet to come. I saw a lot of Alaskan ground squirrels nicknamed "kamikaze squirrels" by me – they had a tendency to wait till the last second then dart across the road resulting in road kill. One time two-darted out- one came across and the other turned back at the centerline. The highway consisted of mountains dropping down to rushing stream valleys and again climbing to ear popping heights. At times one could look across the next hill and trucks looked like toys in the distance, also there were many road signs warning of falling rock or rockslides. I noted signs here as in Canada telling truckers of escape lanes for failed brakes and telling them to "chain up". A trucker told me that means to line up 2-5 trucks in a row so if one has brake failure the others can hold him back.

I stopped to take some pics, by now I’m shooting scenery and also interesting dogs for my daughter in-law Joyce. Usually I get the dog’s name and his owner’s e mail address- I met a lot of people that way. A couple of black familiar looking bikes pulled in: to my surprise and delight it was Gary and Virginia. They were doing Alaska clockwise- me counterclockwise and our paths crossed. We talked for 30-40 minutes about what to see and routes to take. G said V was somewhat depressed the day we separated but he told her we’d meet again and he was right. I continued on to Glenallen. Made only 153 miles in 3.5 hours due to construction, heavy traffic, and conversation. Just South of Glenallen I encountered the roughest and most difficult section of Alaska Highway of the entire trip. On a downhill stretch of road, made slippery by water trucks, in 8-12 inches of fresh fill I ran completely out of control for approx 100 yards. Normally if there is a truck or camper around, I wait and follow them so there will be packed down tracks to ride on .Today there was nobody around and impatiently I attempted to ride through in 3^rd gear at 20-25 MPH. Even at slow speed the bike was soon out of control : I held on to the handlebars and bounced from right foot to left and most fortunately found firm road just before dumping the bike. This was the nearest miss (closest to falling without actually doing it) I’ve ever had. 7 hours later this site was hard packed and easy to traverse. The remaining 100 miles to Valdez was full of photo opportunities-the pipeline, several beautiful waterfalls, snow, and pretty swift moving streams. It seemed like the last 40 miles to Valdez were all downhill. Although I was travelling South the sun was in my face and glare from nearby snow was making me sleepy. I parked at a turnaround and took a 20-minute break with a warm beer and vienna sausage and crackers on the bank of a swift creek.

I wanted to take a boat ride from Valdez and see some seals, whales and glaciers up close but couldn’t book one until the next day. I bought a few post cards and priced souvenirs – highest prices in Alaska. (I was able to purchase and ship some items of equal quality and much lower cost the next day from Tok) The harbor in Valdez was interesting it made me remember a sailing (and drinking) vacation 15 years ago. There were probably 500+ boats ( small cruisers, sailboats, and expensive yachts) from all over the world sitting at anchor .I talked to some boat people from Ft Lauderdale on an extended vacation-they had Goldwings at home. Saw the areas where pipeline ends in Valdez needed a tour guide to explain what I was seeing. I had coffee and cookies, gassed up, and left Valdez around 9-9:30 PM. With hardly any traffic the 119 miles back to Glenallen took less than 2.5 hours. Around midnight I gassed in Glenallen and began the139 mile ride to Tok. The Richardson Highway from Glenallen to the junction of the Tok cutoff had more frost heaves and rubboard bumps than any paved road yet. (several days later Federal 193 through Indian reservations in Arizona was the same condition). Once on the Tok cutoff the road became smoother, some loose gravel but mostly smooth and hard packed. Around 2AM it was dusky dark enough for the headlight to be of some assistance. I saw lots of game during this quiet time- sometimes slowing to 30-40 MPH just to observe. In an area near Grizzly Lake I saw big rabbits all congregated within a 2 mile length of road (I counted 16 live and perhaps 6-8 roadkill). I don’t know why that one area was so heavily populated, I saw perhaps 2 or 3 more in another 70 miles. Near Porcupine Creek I saw a moose followed by a calf cross perhaps 100 yards ahead – I stopped but had no time to snap a picture.

Shortly thereafter, I saw a roadside bar open and stopped hopefully for coffee and an egg sandwich. Several locals were drinking beer and discussing the merits of Bobcat front-end loaders. The bartender said the kitchen was closed- no coffee or breakfast till 8AM. I settled for Snickers and a couple of draft beers and joined the conversation (I once owned a Bobcat loader in my contracting business). The bar had a glassed in showcase above the bar, which contained a beautiful stuffed lynx. I took a picture of the lynx, which had been shot nearby a couple of years earlier. 30 minutes later as I was mounting up to leave three men in an old Blazer approached, complimented me on my bike and asked if I had a dollar. I thanked him for the compliment and said " yes " The bike was running, realizing I was leaving without donating he said in an aggressive tone " all I want is just 4 damn quarters" "Get a damn job", I replied as I rode away.

I arrived in Tok and checked in an inexpensive motel ($34) at 3 AM. One of the few times I saw complete darkness in Alaska. .

DAY 13. Start miles 12918 End 13305

Subtitles: Bike won’t stay upright HOT to TROT

I started this wet day out by walking a block to a nearby garage to get help sitting the bike upright. It rained last night and was still raining this morning. I failed to put the metal 4" X4" piece under the kickstand when I parked at 3 AM. While loading and tying down my luggage the stand mired down into the soft ground and once again the bike was lying downhill on the left crash bars. I tried to right it but could get no traction for my feet on the wet ground. The guys who helped me were very nice and would take no compensation for their help. Once again upright I made some purchases and shipped Alaska logo shirts to all my family members and one of my golfing buddies. At the post office I mailed cards and talked a few minutes with 2 couples on Harleys from Indiana.

The steady persistent rain was a nuisance practically all day- raingear kept me dry but in order to see the road I had to sit up higher and look over the top of the windshield. Either wear a faceshield or let the drops sting my face- comfort be damned. The construction areas were extremely slippery. Lots of fill on the Alcan consists of extremely fine silt which grips wheels like biscuit dough when wet.( to the coal miners reading this, LIKE WET ROCK DUST). The roughest construction area was my "down fall". I had covered maybe 5 miles very cautiously was on C B and with the help of 3 travelers set the bike upright without even untying my luggage even talking to some campers behind me on C B about rain and mud . I was riding on left side of road because tracks were firmer there, seeing some traffic approaching, I tried to cross the berm. The berm locked the bars full lock to the right causing me to release throttle and step off as the crash bars once more came into play. I keyed up

Earlier in the same construction site I had stopped to see if 2 young ladies from Arizona in a Jeep wagon needed help. The wagon had bicycle racks, which held 2 bikes. The rough road had shook one rack loose causing a bike to fall. When I stopped they said thanks but no help needed. Just after the spill I stopped for fuel and they pulled alongside. "Did the fall hurt you?" they said. Then looking at me one said" you didn’t even get your clothes muddy". Looking at my arms and legs I realized this was truly a "clean spill" I did have dirt and rocks on my left passenger foot board, but no damage. After gassing I met Mel and Joe who were headed north in a van. The two from Maryland were Goldwing owners, had made the trip by bike last year and opted to repeat via iron cage this time. I had a beer and supper with them lasting nearly an hour – I wasn’t overly anxious to get back in the rain.

When I returned to the highway I heard someone ask on CB for the Goldwing headed South. That was Hank Hott an EMT fireman from Anchorage who was headed to the Wingding in Springfield MO on a red Goldwing pulling a trailer. I rode slow for a few miles to allow him time to pump his gas and catch up-at the rate Hank was going he would have passed me even if I had not slowed down. Hank had his trip laid out in 1000 mile days and rain and mud was delaying me far more than him. Conversation revealed he had a room reserved in Whitehorse and we agreed to share the room and split the cost- a mutually satisfactory arrangement. I had talked to Hank by e mail a month before starting my trip, at that time he offered to show me the sights around Anchorage while mentioning his planned Wingding trip. After 50-60 miles I could see that I was slowing Hank down so I told him to go on and settle down in the motel and I’d join him later. He was literally covering the mud and slick roads so fast I couldn’t maintain the pace. About 50 miles out of Whitehorse the rain stopped and all conditions were good again. When Hank got to the motel at 11:10 PM they held the reservation till 11 then let someone have the room. They made amends by getting him a room elsewhere so all was well except he had to wait there for me. We settled in at 11; 30 and Hank spoke to his wife on the phone. She then e mailed my wife this message " My husband and your husband are spending the night together in a motel in Whitehorse Ha ha."

Day 14. Start miles 13305 end 13783 Whitehorse to Toad River

I got a somewhat late start this morning, had breakfast at Johnson’s crossing which is about halfway between Whitehorse and Watson Lake. A sausage pie and cinnamon bun was sufficient calories and cholesterol till my mid afternoon lunch at Watson Lake. As I was leaving the campground, café, general store I saw what I perceived to be a Indian motorcycle at least 50 + years old complete with Indian logo and fully valanced front fender a la mid 40’s Indian Chief. I stepped back inside and located the owner (Barry the cook) who told me the bike was actually a Kawaski Vulcan that had been customized. Barry obtained it from a 73 year old gentleman who tore up the front end on the Alcan and decided it was too much machine for a 73 year old kid. I took a couple of pics of the bike and rode off into a dark cloud, which promised rain but happily, failed to produce. At this point I crossed one of my beloved iron grated bridges, perhaps the longest or so it seemed- a truck was behind me and I was delaying him- since we were all alone I pulled into the left lane and flagged him by on my right side. Checking the map later I learned this was the 1770’ Teslin River bridge.

At Watson Lake I met Karl and Todd, two Hog riders from Dallas who had been to the Hog convention in Fairbanks. This pair rode to the Arctic Circle distance of approx 440 miles round trip on acceptable to rough gravel "haul roads" maintained primarily to serve and supply the pipeline. After a short conversation they took pictures at all the previously mentioned road signs and I had a hot dog for a late lunch. I wanted to convert some currency but arrived at the bank 15 minutes past closing time. Leaving town I stopped for a traffic survey that took 20 minutes and half my life history it seemed- Karl and Todd passed by at that time and I didn’t see them again till next afternoon.

Around 7:30 I got tired and sleepy from squinting in the sun, pulled off at a turnout, covered with a lean to tarp and mosquito netting, and slept till midnight. This was not good for it threw me out of sync on gas, caused me to ride in actual darkness, and I was unable to get food or coffee until everything opened up at 8 AM next morning. I went through some heavy construction 40 miles north of Muncho Lake –an interesting experience with only headlights for illumination. I had enough reserve gas for 100 miles. A Russian flagman at the site advised me to stop at Muncho Lake or risk running out of fuel somewhere south of Muncho.The temperature dropped to the point that I dressed in an insulated riding suit with insulated gloves for the last 40 miles. I pulled into a camp called Populars and slept in my sleeping bag with my riding suit on till they opened for business at 9 AM.

Day 15. Start miles 13783 end 14141 Toad River to Fort St John

I started this warm sunshiny day by watching caribou cross ahead of me – no time to get a snapshot. I had breakfast in Toad River in the same stop (4700 ballcaps) that I used going north. I shared a table with a truck driver who was a former Novia Scotia coal miner- we mined several tons of coal and covered lots of Alcan miles over an enjoyable breakfast. Later at the crest of a long grade workers blasting huge boulders in a construction site delayed me 10 minutes. I chatted with Adele the flag girl and took her picture. This was on Stone Mountain; I also photoed 7-8 goats some with small kids. Later just north of Ft Nelson I took pics of a well kept, touching little memorial- white crosses, color photos, fresh flowers at the spot of a head on, fatal crash where 6 Alcan travelers ended their journey in February 1995. I learned that 4 of them were attractive young teen-agers from the Ft Nelson area. I spent another half-hour talking to Peter and Wilbur(2 workers building a fence around their boss’s 40 acre hobby ranch) on their lunch break. This old retired fence man simply had to take pics and discuss U S and Canadian building procedures.

I killed another 1.5 hours in Ft Nelson at the bank, visitor’s center, and outfitter’s shop (souvenirs and warm gloves for chilly Florida mornings) the exchange rate was 144/1. Today was an excellent one for viewing game- I saw live moose, caribou, white tail deer/ elk/ and one dead porcupine who failed highway crossing 101. South of Ft Nelson 50 miles I encountered Sal and Bernie- a Northbound California couple changing a tire on their tandem axle camper. It was a hot afternoon and Sal appreciated the help. His tire tread had ripped off some of the trim from the camper and Bernie was retrieving it when I stopped. When we finished they tried to pay me- I accepted a cold beer- had almost forgotten how much better it was COLD. Next about 140 miles from Fort St John at a roadside stop I saw my Hog riding friends Karl and Todd- we celebrated the occasion with one of their cold beers. We rode together in light rain for an hour and sunshine the rest of the way to Fort St John. Once there we shared a nice room at a cost of $13, each which included full breakfast the next morning. The motel had a live band playing in the restaurant so the 3 of us watched couples dancing while we ate steak and washed it down with cold draft. This was one of my most leisurely days- covered only 463 miles ,stopped before 8 PM- enjoyed every minute.

Day 16. Start miles 14387 end 14850

I arose at 7 AM loaded the bike talked to my supervisor (Jackie) at a reasonable hour for a change and went to the dining room for breakfast. There was only one couple eating when I arrived. The lady who cooked my food was unable to get a sitter for the day and her son; Harlan about 2 ½ years old and very friendly was playing by himself. Harlan took my hand and walked me to a piano in the back. On the piano was a stuffed rooster looking exactly like a live one. Harlan said "crow "and clapped his hands and the rooster crowed. He later sat in my lap and helped eat my sausage. I got the other patron to snap a pic of us and I took a couple of Harlan and the rooster. (What a wonderful life it could be if everyone had the trust and sincerity of a two-year-old)

Once again in the travel mode I crossed the last (and first) metal grated bridge on the Alcan at Taylor Landing. At Dawson Creek I stopped at mile marker 0 and got a couple of ladies from Greenville MS to take my picture. This mother and daughter had a nice rig (1 ton diesel truck pulling a tandem axle camper) I recorded their names-Phyla and Allyson along with their dog "Mioboi" were headed North to Alaska-and had some discussion about the title of their favorite opera which was printed on the front end of the truck. Allyson explained the theme( a warrior’s triumphant victory march) and even sang a few bars that sounded familiar to my tin ear.

Spying a Wal Mart I stopped and shopped for snack foods and film. For this day and the next every Wal Mart was a shopping stop. I was searching for turquoise jewelry for our 45^th wedding anniversary on 3 July. Highway 43 was familiar; I had gone north the same route. There seemed to be a lot of locals pulling boats on this bright Saturday morning. I used another 2 hours at Grand Prairie but still no turquoise. Leaving Grand Prairie I took highway 40 due south (at times southwest). This was truly "the road less traveled" one of the most serene solitary highways in Canada. Except for an occasional logging truck and less than a dozen cars I covered the 180 clicks to Grand Cache alone.

Just a few miles north of Grande Cache, on the side of a mountain, I passed by the Smoky River coal mine, naturally I recorded this for posterity. The mine was going full blast at 4:30 on a Saturday afternoon- I could see a lot of activity at the yard on my left and to my right was a conveyor belt coming out of a tunnel in the mountainside. I spoke with a local at a rest stop and he told me the tunnel stretched 8 miles to a shaft mine and also to a strip mine on the other side of the mountain. I later learned the mine worked 7 days a week but the workers only worked 5 day staggered shifts. I stopped around 5 PM for gas and observed a dark cloud hanging over my path. A motel nearby advertised rooms with a kitchenette for 22$ US. The motel office had an overhanging balcony and parked under its shelter was a Kawaski "crotch rocket" (sport racing motorcycle for you readers who don’t speak motorcyclese) I talked with the manager who told me this was the last inexpensive motel- for the next 200 miles around the game parks all rates were considerably higher. The threatening rain, the lower rates, and the bonus that I could park under the shelter without unloading or reloading my luggage convinced me to stop for the day.

I walked back to the café –gas station and had a delicious supper of beef tips and vegetables for less than $3.During the meal a small bus (20-30 passenger) drove by. Sandra, the 16-year-old waitress told me that was the mine bus, which picked up the workers and delivered them back home after work. Her father was the safetyman at the mine. One reason for the bus was the bitter cold weather in the wintertime. I asked Sandra the coldest weather she had ever experienced. The answer was " –40 Celsius"

I read pamphlets in my room that advertised bulltrout fishing and guided hunting trips in the area for very reasonable rates. The manager said winter was their busiest time and summer was the off season. One could fly into Edmonton, rent a car, and drive to this relatively isolated area and enjoy several days of guided hunting or fishing for a modest sum- compared to Alaskan trips which would involve 3000 more travel miles. A couple of warm beers and a boring ball game on TV put me to sleep before it was dark, I spent more time shopping and talking than riding today covering 246 miles of some beautiful Canadian countryside.

Day 16. Start miles 14387 end 14850 Grande Cache to Cranbrook B C

I arose dressed and had coffee in my room while waiting for my favorite (read cheap and only) Grande Cache café to open at 5 AM. The menu quoted steak with 3 eggs and fried potatoes with coffee for$3.99 C(2,77 US) Old big hearted me told the waitress to make it only 1 egg and generously still paid full price. I rode away at 5:30 in a chilly 41 degree temp. It was foggy due to rain during the night and I rode slow because of limited visibility. The first 5 miles was in mountainous construction area where there was a 2-foot drop if one pulled off the pavement shoulder. At the first safe place to stop I put on my insulated suit and kept it on the rest of the day. While stopped I observed two white-tailed elk/deer that made no effort to run for at least 2-3 minutes while I photoed them. The big pockets on my insulated suit were just right to hold and keep my camera ready for instant use. Saw lots of game on this isolated 89 mile stretch to Hinton- more than anywhere else except in the parks and preserves where they had no fear of humans. At Hinton I went by the tourist information center in hope of arranging a mine tour; it was closed on Sunday. Next I phoned the tour office from a hotel lobby where a recorded message referred me to the tourist info center. I pulled into a truck stop café and the lady there said there were no Sunday tours. Not wanting to wait 24 hours I reluctantly crossed the mine tour off my itinerary. Waiting for Wal Mart to open, I had coffee and a single cookie that was too big to dunk in the cup without breaking in half.

I finally succeeded and found a turquoise heart pendant, which of course had to hang from a gold chain for my anniversary gift. I also picked up a couple of winter( Florida winter) jackets and a pair of overalls for my granddaughter-Rachel liked the jacket, she has put it on several times in 80+ weather already. Another item that I found useful is an inexpensive plastic eyesheild. It is more convenient andcomfortable than a full facesheild to protect around my eyes from stinging rain when looking across the top of the windsheild. I used it several times that day riding in and out of summer like showers 3-4 times. I stopped for gas at one station waited more than 5 minutes for a space to become vacant and found the power was off and everybody was patiently waiting- I got gas at another stop 25 miles later.

The roughly 300 mile trip through Jasper, Banff, and Kootenay National Parks provided more photo opportunities of more abundant game than any other continuous highway I traveled. I paid $ 4 for a pass to travel through (it would have been more if I had planned to camp overnight) I thought it was a better bargain than the "free admission" with a $7.50 parking fee at Mt Rushmore. Moose, caribou, bear, goats, and sheep were easy to photo at very close distances. I stopped and crossed the road to get shots of a grazing caribou with a bird/egret? On its back, in my rush I didn’t take my helmet off. I asked another tourist to take a shot of me with the animal as background. It turned out very well looked like I could have reached back and petted the caribou with the huge rack. Highway 93 is the route I took, I recommend it not only for the game but also for the scenery accompanied with many informational markers and mountain riding any cyclist would want to repeat.

Shortly after leaving Kootenay Park I thought I had my first speeding ticket since 1992- on a straight stretch of good highway the RCMP turned on their emergency lights, made a U turn and began overtaking me. They passed me and stopped the car directly in front of me, causing me to reduce speed for a while.

I had some good pics of Split Rock Canyon near Radium Hot Springs B. C., also waterfalls at Sinclair Canyon, more fencing across a solid rock canyon wall( only another fence man could appreciate the difficulty of that job.) Approx 40 –50 miles north of Cranbrook B.C. running parallel to the Kootenay River in the evening sun I saw and photoed a double rainbow that appeared to start and end in the river. The one nearer to me was bright and vivid like a painting while the second one was only faintly visible. At Cranbrook roughly 50 miles from the U S border I got a room and settled down for my last night in Canada. After unloading the bike and securing luggage in my room, I took off my riding suit and wore sweats for the walk to a nearby restaurant. Supper consisted of fish and chips French fries covered with gravy and a local beer whose name was similar to Kootenay.

DAY 18. Start 14850 end miles 15349 CRANBROOK TO CHALLIS IDAHO

Up and away at 8 AM I deviated from my route somewhere and backtracked ½ mile along streets with loose gravel shoulders. The U S border at Kingsgate seemed to be downhill all the way, I spoke to a trucker who had a double trailer load of timbers in front of me. " I smell brakes ", I said. His reply was ,"You will every time you follow a load down these highways". Approaching U S border crossing, I was somewhat apprehensive creating all sorts of problems in my imagination because I had no driver’s license or picture I D. The lady officer asked if I had alcohol (yes 2 cans of warm beer) or firearms. Satisfied with my answers she bade me a safe trip and I was back home in the good old U S A. I knew for sure that Canadian drivers as a whole are more careful and observant only 30-40 miles later. From ½ mile away I watched a lady pullout and turn left without ever realizing this 2 wheeler was on the road. Anticipating her move, I slowed from 70 to 20 with no risk whatsoever to me.

The nearest bank to the border was in Bonner’s Ferry . There I stopped, called my daughter in law on an 800 number, and converted my Canadian currency back to U S. In my confusion I missed U S Hwy 2 so I took state 200 which paralleled 2 and would lead me back to U S 93 South for several hundred miles. 200 was an old settler’s and gold miner’s trail which was replete with interesting markers and scenic countryside. First fuel stop was Clark Fork. There I had coffee and sweet rolls for breakfast and stopped at a small post office. I spent 15 minutes getting stamps and mailing postcards because both people ahead of me had long conversations with the postmistress. Also in Clark Fork I talked with a group of 5 Canadian bikers and took their pics. I promptly lost their e mail address before the day ended. About 50 miles later I stopped to strip down to sweats and short sleeve shirt. An Amish family of 6 travelling in an old station wagon pulling a trailer loaded with fenceposts was eating lunch there. Father ,as the children and wife addressed him, told me he had made the trip from Canada to Montana on a bike some 28 years earlier. They were vacationing (apparently on a very tight budget) back to Canada. He had hand cut the fenceposts to give to his wife’s ( Mother was how he and kids addressed her) brother. A little further down HWY 200 at another historic marker, I met and talked with 2 ladies at a fireworks stand. (Martha White and her friend)

About this time I decided in order to celebrate my 45^th anniversary at home with Jackie that I must: 1 stop taking pictures 2 stop engaging in long conversations 3 cover at least 800 miles every day. I picked up U S 93 South traveled a very short distance on I 90 then south once more on 93 to Missoula MT where I bought snacks and dined on Beanie Weenies and warm beer. The stretch of road north and south of Missoula must be the log home capitol of the world. I would guess that I passed at least 40 different locations with model homes and log home kits for sale. It reminded me of Car dealer’s rows, which are prominent in some Alabama towns.

The rest of the day consisted of crossing the Bitterroot mountain range on some turns and switchbacks at times gearing to 4^th and slowing to 25 mph. I crossed the swift flowing Salmon River numerous times- it seemed to flow up hill on some occasions. One time I had to detour approx !-2 miles on gravel and dirt due to an accident.This was no problem to one who had braved the Alcan. Around 4 P M I became sleepy and consumed a beer in the shade of a big tree in a small town. The next town (with a motel) was Challis, ID where I spent the night. A nice room with the bike visible outside cost $34

DAY 19. Start 15349 end miles 16253 Challis ID- Grants NM

Up at 5:30 I had coffee and was riding before 6, By way of US 93 and 26 then I 15 I burned a tank of gas and refueled at Salt Lake City. To save time I ordered breakfast then bought gas while breakfast was prepared. Traffic was heavy and it was difficult to maintain a good pace in the increasingly warm weather. Before leaving I 15 south of Provo I filled my cup with ice and again filled my tank. Route 6 and federal 191 carried me across Soldier Summit through Price and Helper. This route was pretty good 2 lane with adequate passing lanes. I observed 3 deer/elk who had failed to make it across the road. Earlier that morning in Idaho I saw a coyote obvious from the highway. He almost met me then veered away at the last minute. I intersected I 70 and rode Interstate for perhaps 20-25 miles then continued south on U S 191 through Canyonlands National Park. This was an area of breathtakingly beautiful rock formations- I snapped 1-2 pics while stopped for gas and a couple while riding. I did snap a cow standing in the road because I had to come to a full stop to allow it to clear the road. Just beyond Canyonlands I had lunch at a pretty roadside rest area. I met a man from Guntersville AL and spoke with him while eating. A passing trucker told me that the reservations were open stock areas and reservation residents were reimbursed for stock killed on the federal highways passing through.

It seemed that the highways serving the national parks were in pretty good shape. Once beyond the park boundaries the same highways served the reservations and were some of the poorest paved roads I have traveled. Rubboard bumps apparently not repaired since last winter’s freezes set up a vibration that would shake fillings loose from your teeth. Careless or drunk drivers caused me to stop or slow down several times that day. I began to expect that most pickups pulling on the highway could not see me and more than 3 times that was the case. I passed Four Corners, the only spot in the U S where 4 states join each other. My last fuel stop before dark was on a Navajo reservation, coming into town I saw a dog eating the remains of a cow (road kill I assumed).

Remaining on U S 191 I passed small Indian towns where lots of fireworks were for sale then turned east on state rd 264 coming into Gallup about 1 hour after dark. Picking up I 40 in Gallup I rode Interstate by headlight another 40 + miles until the red light reminded me to stop for gas. A nearby motel advertised rooms for $30. The room was clean and cool but no phones in rooms. The clerk was kind and let me call collect on her phone. At 10:30 P M I checked in at home and retired for some much needed rest. It took less than 10 minutes to unload my gear and set my alarm for 5 the next morning.

June 30 Day. 20 Start mileage 16253 end 17032 Grants N M- Vian OK

I hit the road at daylight with new tank of gas and fresh coffee the weather was warm and I was comfortable in sweats and a short sleeved shirt. I made 193+ miles on the first tank of fuel riding at 75-80. Lost some time due to traffic in Albuquerque. Interstate traffic was heavy but at least everybody was going in same direction and no one could turn in my path. I made my second gas stop at a smalltown café which was a bus stop, freight drop and combination of several other enterprises. There was a gaping hole in the glass front door where someone had attempted an unsuccessful burglary during the night. The food was good and I had an enjoyable conversation with a West bound California couple while my eggs were cooking. Back on I 40 again any plans I had of exceeding the 75-MPH speeds were soon forgotten. Crosswinds of up to 50 MPH made me back off and caused the poorest gas mileage of my entire trip. Passing a vehicle scared me the first hour or so. I soon learned to pass as close to the car/truck as possible while shielded from the crosswind. Once away from the vehicle, the wind would carry me onto the left side of the passing lane. Gas mileage dropped by 5 MPG and I ran the tank dry just 3 miles from an intended stop. This was not a real problem- it just required loosening luggage straps in order to get the trunk open and access my 2.5-gallon spare gas supply. I got as accustomed as one can to the crosswinds because they were encountered off and on till I was perhaps 150 miles southeast of Memphis, Tenn. On open straight-aways at times I had to lean against the wind- it bothered me most when passing or coming out of sheltered areas like underpasses or bridges. I made fair time the rest of the day until I reached Okiecity( CB speak for Oklahoma City) There a combination of construction detours,heavy traffic, and backup from an accident cost me an hour of travel time. Just before dark I stopped at a rest stop had a supper of potted meat crackers and warm beer. While stopped I talked with a trucker who had passed me earlier- he advised me to get a room before Ft Smith and he thought I would not have a problem making Birmingham the next day. I rode on till headlights were needed and found a motel at Vian, OK Again no room phones so I called home on the office phone and checked in for the day.

Day 21. Start miles 17032-end 17585 Vian, OK – Birmingham, AL

Up at dawn I loaded the bike ,filled my cup, and got underway in less than 20 minutes. Traffic seemed light and I passed Ft Smith within the 1^st hour. After 66 miles I stopped at McDonalds for breakfast and refilled the gas tank while off the Interstate. Trip on to Memphis was uneventful. I got into a spirited discussion with one trucker about driving with a flat tire on his trailer. He was ahead of me and other drivers were telling him he had a tire down on his trailer. He said he knew the tire was flat but he was running empty and didn’t have time to stop and change the tire. I asked for his location on the CB. He replied the tire was not a problem. I told him I needed to know the location of someone stupid enough to drive on a flat so I could pass quickly before the tread flew into my face.

I was thinking if I could reach Birmingham by 4 P M I would see my son for 30 minutes then ride on into Crestview, FL a distance of 240 miles by dark. This was not to be- a wreck involving 3 trucks somewhere south of Memphis caused a delay with traffic routed off U S 78 East and detouring for 7-10 miles around the scene. One truck had a mechanical problem, a second one stopped to help him, then the 3^rd one collided with the other two. Drivers said there were fatalities and truck parts were scattered on the highway. Traffic was at a standstill for 30 –40 minutes then bumper to bumper for another hour. My left hand got so tired from engaging and releasing the clutch that my fingers were cramping. This delay was enough to cancel any opportunity of reaching Crestview tonight without riding 2 lane roads in darkness.

Riding through Jasper, AL 45 miles Northwest of Birmingham during 4-5 PM traffic was more frightening than any paved roads I covered. It is all 4 lane highways with the East and West lanes separated so those cars in crossovers stick out and appear to be crossing into my path. At one time I glanced in my right mirror and saw a young lady engrossed in a cell phone conversation with her left fender so close I could have kicked it. I motioned with my hand and her attention returned to the road. I arrived alive in Birmingham at 5:30 gassed up for tomorrow. After a good meal and losing several games of chess I retired early in order to be up and rolling at first light

Day 22. Start miles 17585 end 17825 Smoke City AL- Crestview, FL

Up at 5 AM had coffee and out of B’ham before any traffic on I 65 south became a problem. Becoming more anxious to see my bride of 45 years I covered the 152 miles to Georgiana,AL in record time. I stopped for breakfast and talked briefly with Debby who had served me breakfast 3 weeks earlier when I began my trip. She was glad to see that I had survived the trip said she worried the whole time since I left. In 30 minutes I had breakfast bought my last tank of gas and was on my way home. The remaining 80 + miles the line from an old song "the sweetest mile you will ever roam is the last mile home" ran through my mind. After passing Andalusia I turned left on AL137 and got behind a loaded log truck just 50 miles from home. Impatience ruled and I parallel parked at high speed to get around when it would have been wiser to wait. Nearing home the engine and bike seemed to perform better and better. . The last 240 miles plus eating took only 4 hours. After 22 days and 10955 miles I was home once more.

Thanks to Steve Saunders for posting this article on his web site. Click here to return to Steve's homepage.