1. These tiles look much lighter in colour, in the box, than they do after the treatment with brown sealer.  They should be stored inside as rain will cause the box to disintegrate and the tiles to effloresce.  Stack tiles upright, and not on the flat, to prevent breakages.  Rough edges and pitting on the tiles are not defects, but a characteristic look of the product.

2. Decide on pattern to be used ie square, diagonal, brick etc. Ask for details when expansion joints are required.

3. On the first day fix the tiles to a well-cured base (6 weeks old, BS regulation).  Use a good quality rapid set floor adhesive.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions.  The adhesive should be combed to a minimum depth of 6 mm per square metre at a time.  Butter the backs of each tile, particularly in the bevelled spots, to achieve maximum adhesion and support for the tile.  Grout space should be a minimum of 10 mm and not greater than 15 mm or else the grout will sag in the middle.   This gives enough play, as the tiles are not four square.  Use a wide joint grey grout for 30 x 30 and 40 x 40 tiles.  Sandstone grout looks better on the 21.5 x 21.5 tiles.  Use an angle-grinder to cut the tiles which is much quicker than using a wet saw. 

4. Wipe the dust off the surface of the tiles with a clean towel before applying the brown sealer.  Apply the brown sealer to the tiles with a 4" paint brush, the length of your arm at a time.  Do not overload the brush.  Apply sparingly.  It will soak in quite quickly.  Brush lines will appear.  These should be rubbed away with a clean towel.  Suggest you treat six tiles at a time and then rub over with a clean towel.   Repeat until the entire floor is covered.  It will be dry in two hours.  Suggest you leave it over-night to harden if drying conditions are poor, otherwise grouting can begin.  Leave used rags outside the house to avoid accidental combustion.

5. Mix the grout to a pasty consistency according to the manufacturer's instructions.  (If it is too watery, salts will occur in the grout).  Pull the grout into the spaces with a squeegee and level off.  The grout should be flush with the surface of the tiles and not recessed.  This is achieved by allowing the grout to dry out longer.  Remove the surplus grout with a series of clean sponges and buckets of clean water.  Do not slop water all over the tiles as this will cause salting.  Wipe with a damp sponge and rinse clean every time.  Allow the grout to dry out and harden ie 48 - 72 hours or longer.  Protect floor from other trades with 8" x 4" hardboard or block off the room.  If in doubt contact me on 087-2-623672 or 00-353-87-623672 (Nr Irl)

6. On the day the grout has hardened rub off the grout scum with clean towels to reveal the clean matt tiles.  Shake the cloth out several times outside the house to remove excess dust.  Apply the brown sealer again sparingly, stretching it over the tiles and the grout space as well.  Remove brush marks by rubbing over each tile with a clean cloth.  Allow 5 - 10 minutes to soak in.  Rub the tiles with the cloth so that the surface is matt to satin in appearance, not glazed.  This stage is critical and the tiler must not leave the job until the whole floor area has been wiped to a matt finish.  Leave used cloths outside to prevent self-combustion.

7. The next day, apply a coat of beeswax with a clean cloth (and not with the shining brush).  Do two courses of tiles at a time (which is approximately the length of your arm).  Allow 5 - 10 minutes to harden.  Shine with a large shoe-shine brush.  Repeat the process until the entire floor is done.  Additional applications of wax give increased hardness and shine.

8. The client should be left with tins of wax for future maintenance and given my address for a maintenance sheet to be sent to them.  This can be obtained from the shop where the goods were bought.

Tools required:  Angle grinder, sponges, cloths, 4" paint brush, shining brush, squeegee, 6 mm comb, water bucket.  If using a wet saw, cut tiles must be dried with a dry cloth or else salting will occur.

1. These tiles look much lighter in colour, in the box, than they do after the treatment with linseed oil.  They should be stored inside as rain will cause the box to disintegrate and the tiles to effloresce.  Stack tiles upright, and not on the flat, to prevent breakages.  Rough edges and pitting on the tiles are not defects, but a characteristic look of the product.

2. Decide on pattern to be used ie square, diagonal, brick etc. Ask for details when expansion joints are required.

3. On the first day fix the tiles to a well-cured base (6 weeks old, BS regulation).  Use a good quality rapid set floor adhesive.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions.  The adhesive should be combed to a minimum depth of 6 mm per square metre at a time.  Butter the backs of each tile, particularly in the bevelled spots, to achieve maximum adhesion and support for the tile.  Grout space should be a minimum of 10 mm and not greater than 15 mm or else the grout will sag in the middle.   This gives enough play, as the tiles are not four square.  Use Sandstone for all sizes of tile as grey looks very dull.  Use an angle-grinder to cut the tiles which is much quicker than using a wet saw. 

4. Wipe the dust off the surface of the tiles with a clean towel before applying the boiled linseed oil.  Apply the boiled linseed oil to the tiles with a 4" paint brush, the length of your arm at a time.  Do not overload the brush.  Apply sparingly.  It will soak in quite quickly.  Repeat procedure until the entire floor is covered.  It will dry out in approximately three hours.  If drying conditions are poor, as in winter months, leave overnight.  Otherwise grouting can begin.  Leave used rags outside the house to avoid accidental combustion.

5. Mix the grout to a pasty consistency according to the manufacturer's instructions.  (If it is too watery, salts will occur in the grout).  Pull the grout into the spaces with a Squeegee and level off.  The grout should be flush with the surface of the tiles and not recessed.  This is achieved by allowing the grout to dry out longer.  Remove the surplus grout with a series of clean sponges and buckets of clean water.  Do not slop water all over the tiles as this will cause salting.  Wipe with a damp sponge and rinse clean every time.  Allow the grout to dry out and harden ie 48 - 72 hours or longer.  Protect floor from other trades with 8" x 4" hardboard or block off the room.  If in doubt contact me on 087-2-623672 or 00-353-87-623672 (Nr Irl)

6. On the day the grout has hardened rub off the grout scum with clean towels to reveal the clean matt tiles.  Shake the cloth out several times outside the house to remove excess dust.  Apply a second coat of boiled linseed oil again sparingly, stretching it over the tiles and the grout space as well.   Rub the tiles with the cloth so that the surface is matt to satin in appearance, not glazed.  The linseed oil will take longer to soak in this time.  If it has not dried out after 5 - 10 minutes, wipe up excesses with a clean towel producing a matt finish rather than a wet look.  Do the same for the grout space as well.  This stage is critical and the tiler must not leave the job until the whole floor area has been wiped to a matt finish.  Leave used cloths outside to prevent self-combustion.

7. The next day, apply a coat of beeswax with a clean cloth (and not with the shining brush).  Do two courses of tiles at a time (which is approximately the length of your arm).  Allow 5 - 10 minutes to harden.  Shine with a large shoe-shine brush.  Repeat the process until the entire floor is done.  Additional applications of wax give increased hardness and shine.

8. The client should be left with tins of wax for future maintenance and given my address for a maintenance sheet to be sent to them.  This can be obtained from the shop where the goods were bought.